48 Hours in New York City
Mike and I always talk about our goals. Goals for the day. Goals for the weekend. For a vacation. For the year. For life. It's good to have goals. One of mine for this summer was to pop down to New York and see the David Bowie Is exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum. We lucked out with a free hotel room that a family member couldn't use, so they graciously offered it to us, and we flew down to the city for a whole of two days. We managed to pack a ton of awesome things into our 48 hours, including the exhibit. Here's a quick recap of our whirlwind trip:
DAY ONE
We arrived just after noon (flight time was a brisk 37 minutes from BOS to EWR) and too early for hotel check in, so we dropped our bags with the concierge and headed out into the city for lunch.
Two Boots Pizza
http://twoboots.com/
You can ask 100 New Yorkers what their favorite slice of pizza is and you’ll get 100 different answers. If you ask me, it’s Two Boots. The first slice of NYC pizza I ever had was at Rose’s Pizza in Penn Station. And it was alright. But the second slice of pizza I ever had was from Two Boots and it was incredible. I was led there one night back in 2003 by a born-and-raised New York friend who insisted this tiny shop was worth waiting in a line on the sidewalk for. It was hot. We were all a little drunk and tired. But he was right in the end. Best damn pizza I’ve ever had.
Two Boots is named for Italy and Louisiana (both boot-shaped). Each pizza is named after a pop culture character or icon and features a blend of Cajun and Italian flavor. My all-time favorite slice is The Newman, a white pie featuring sopressata and sweet Italian sausage. There was precisely ONE slice left in the shop when we arrived and I swear it was waiting for me. My second fave is The Dude, a traditional pie topped with beef, andouille, tasso ham, cheddar, and mozzarella.
Sometimes I mix it up and get a Mr. Pink (creole chicken, plum tomatoes, garlic, and mozzarella). Mike, on his first trip to Two Boots, chose The Luisaida (chorizo, garlic, hot pickled peppers) and a Cleopatra Jones (sweet Italian sausage, roasted peppers, and red onions).
Above is The Luisaida and The Newman. 10/10, would recommend. Then a couples of beers to pair it with, and we were already having a successful trip within an hour of arriving.
Here is Mike inside Two Boots basking in the glow of delicious pizza.
McSorley’s Old Ale House
https://mcsorleysoldalehouse.nyc/
This was not one of my old city haunts, but one of Mike’s. He’d ventured here a few years back for a bachelor party and wanted to make a return visit. It has quite the history. Established in 1854, McSorley’s is New York City’s oldest Irish tavern and the oldest continuously operated saloon in the city. Abraham Lincoln campaigned here. Houdini’s stage handcuffs hang from the ceiling here. Turkey wishbones from WWI soldiers remain strung from the lamps, with long-faded wishes to return from the war.
Photos of Presidents and baseball superstars line the walls. Nothing has ever been removed which was hung here for over 100 years. It’s all original. Even the old antique beer taps still gaze out across the bar top at modern day visitors.
A sign over the antique refridgerator greets all with McSorely’s first motto: "Be Good or Be Gone.”
The same beer is still served to this day (brewed by Pabst Brewing Company). You have two choices in McSorley’s: Light or Dark. No Sam Adams. No Bud. No PBR or special craft brew. Just light or dark ale, served two at a time to each customer. We bellied up to the bar and ordered the standard Two and Two, a pair of light and a pair of dark.
Technically, they are McSorley’s Cream Stock Ale and McSorley’s Famous Lager. Both are excellent and you won’t find them anywhere else. So if you’re in New York and a bit thirsty, make this place your afternoon stop.
One last bit of history. McSorely’s second motto is nowhere to be seen these days. It used to read, "Good Ale, Raw Onions and No Ladies.” McSorley’s was the last “Men Only” pub in New York, and it went out like a sore loser to the tune of a discrimination lawsuit (Seidenberg v. McSorleys' Old Ale House, 1970, United States District Court, S. D. New York).
Barbara Shaum was the bar's first female patron in August 10, 1970. They didn’t get a ladies room there until 16 years later. And only just recently, 1994 to be exact, was a woman allowed to tend bar. That would be Teresa Maher de la Haba, daughter of McSorley's night manager.
Physical Graffitea
http://physicalgraffitea.com/
I don’t even remember when I discovered this place. I know I was hunting around for a loose tea shop that was on par with Red Blossom out in San Francisco. The kind staffed by tea aficionados who can discern a first flush darjeeling from a second flush, and who will take the time to brew you a sample in order to walk you through a tasting. Whatever the equivalent of a sommelier is and the polar opposite of a Teavana, staffed by lazy college students working for minimum wage.
However I found it, Physical Graffitea was the answer to my quest for quality loose tea. I’d describe it as more old fashioned apothecary than tea shop. You can walk in and ask for recommendations for improving your liver or detoxing your kidneys. They have tea that will supposedly make you more fertile or sleep better.
Or maybe you just want to find an interesting herbal tea for evening drinking that’s not boring ass chamomile. This place has a tea for everything. And they are very knowledgable about their wares. On this trip, I stocked up on my favorite Lady Hannah’s Whole Fruit tea. I cleaned out their entire stock, so maybe wait a while before asking for it. We also bought some tumeric and ginger tea which Mike loves, and a cream Earl Grey which is just luscious.
I abstained from the small batch handmade cookies they offer, but I’ve had them in the past and they are fantastic. Absolutely recommend.
And if you’re a fan of Led Zeppelin, you’ll be delighted to know that Physical Graffitea is on the ground floor of the historic “Physical Graffiti” buildings that graced the cover of the album of the same name.
David Bowie IS
https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/davidbowieis
The sole reason for making the trip was because I wanted to go see the David Bowie exhibit. It began over in London at the V&A Museum (one of my all-time favorites) and is the first grand retrospective of his career. It ran there for years and I missed it, so I was thrilled to have a chance at seeing it close to home (and in the city David lived for the majority of his life). They didn’t allow photography inside, so all I have to share are some exterior museum shots and selfies at the grand entrance.
And honestly that’s fine because I was genuinely overwhelmed by everything inside. It was too much to take in for one visit! The photographs were touching and intimate. The hand-written lyrics sheets for songs that you’ve sang a million times, etched in your heart, and pondered every line made it all so very real. The glittering, shimmering costumes on thin white mannequins with life-like masks brought the starman down from an imaginary galaxy and down to earth where he became real and tangible, if only for a moment. I loved every bit of it. I loved seeing the instruments up close, the maquettes of stage design and lighting he collaborated on, the paintings and drawings of characters he’d bring to life, and all of the art and music that surrounded him which he consumed and drew upon for inspiration. It’s dizzying trying to take it all in (and that’s not just because of the lack of air conditioning). The width and breadth of his creativity is truly mind-blowing.
I will say that my two criticisms are the lack of chronological order, which could have helped reign the viewer in a bit. And the forced audio guide, which I found to be largely distracting and ended up abandoning for the most post. Having to read a plaque while also hearing a completely different spoken narration or interview is vexing. The headset also seemed to be location-dependent within the exhibit, meaning that you’d “receive” sound bites while walking near various installations which you couldn’t pause or restart, and which was difficult to follow if you were being swept up in a sea of constantly moving people jockeying for position to look at something. So, A for concept but F for execution on that. If you go, before it closes, opt out of the headphones or bring your own earbuds.
Oh wait, I have a third criticism. The gift shop sucked. I brought tons of cash to dump into merchandise for my #1 favorite artist and a record-breaking exhibit, and I walked out empty handed. The shirts were of cheap, thin quality and all XL or larger. The mugs and magnets were just the album covers. The one print in the entire shop was just the ad for the exhibit. And there were tons of useless things like pencils, CDs which I can’t play because I haven’t owned a CD player for nearly a decade now, and un-branded silver fanny packs(?). The one thing I wanted from the website (a lighting bolt necklace) wasn’t available for purchase. So that’s a drag. But I supposed I’ll be happy to save the cash and keep the memories as a token of the trip.
Momofuku Ssäm Bar
https://ssambar.momofuku.com/
After the exhibit we were able to check into our hotel, take our second shower of the day because the humidity was off the charts, and scout around for dinner. I'm a fan of the Momofuku restaurants, so I suggested we try one I haven't tried in the name of experimentation. We walked over to Momofuku Ssäm Bar and feasted on a selection of tapas. I do not have photos because hunger overruled. We had their famous pork buns, the Edwards Wigwam ham (coffee, black pepper, smokey), the Broadbent ham, (nutty, sweet, medium smoke), and Mike had the Shrimp Toast as a finale.
Forbidden Planet (aka, nerd store)
https://www.fpnyc.com
I’ve been shopping at Forbidden Planet for something like fifteen years now. I’ve watched them grow from a tiny comic book shop to the sprawling store with custom Captain Planet shield doorhandles they’ve become today. They are my number one favorite comic destination in the world and it’s not hard to see why. It’s like a bright, welcoming fantasy land inhabited by all your favorite comics, movies, tv shows, cartoons, books, games, and pop culture obsessions. Mike calls them The Nerd Store.
Since we were passing through Union Square late that evening on our way back to the hotel, I pulled us around the corner to see if they were still open. As luck would have it, they were. An hour later, we exited the shop with a set of porcelain Star Wars dishes, a keychain from “Quint’s Boat Rentals”, and a pint-sized model of the robot from Lost in Space. Also a pair of huge grins.
When we finally made it back to the hotel, it was just shy of midnight and we'd walked a total of 8.61 miles. 19,019 steps according to my Apple Watch. We took our third shower of the day (why does humidity exist?) and crashed hard. Day Two would start in about eight hours from now.
DAY TWO
Highline
http://www.thehighline.org/
Above the streets of Manhattan, you’ll find a mile and a half of beautifully landscaped greenery tucked away along a disused elevated railway spanning from the Meatpacking District, through Chelsea, and up to midtown. It’s the Highline park and it is a must when the weather is nice. Back when I worked in New York, I was lucky enough to watch the creation of the highline project unfold and walked the park during each phase of it’s expansion. It’s really a marvel of urban planning and NYC’s dedication to preserving green space. Today there are shops and cafes all along the park, with incredible botanical gardens sprawling out just a few feet above the street traffic. It all makes for an absolutely stunning stroll on a late spring afternoon.
We began our Highline tour just below the Hudson yards around 28th street, with coffee and vanilla scones. Then we slowly meandered down the greenway, stopping at a few of the scenic alcoves that allow you to look out over 10th avenue or up cross streets like this one with one of the few remaining skybridges in the city.
At Gansevoort Street, we finished our Highline journey and descended back down to street level. The coffee and scones had long worn off and we discussed the all important question of where to have lunch at.
Kat’z Deli
https://www.katzsdelicatessen.com/
I asked Mike if he had any goals while in the city and he said he would love to have a sandwich at a traditional-style deli. Since we were already positioned in lower Manhattan, we were a short distance away from arguable the best deli sandwich in the entire city. Maybe the world. Ten minutes later we were on the doorstep of the legendary Kat’z Deli.
You probably know of this place, even if you haven’t been here or know it by name. It’s been operating since 1888 and it’s been the set for countless movies and tv shows you love. It’s also one of those truly rare places that tourists flock to but locals haven’t sworn off going to because the tourists flock there. It’s too damned good to ignore. The walls are lined with photographs of celebrities who’ve dined at the famous deli and an amusing placard dangles over the table where Harry Met Sally for that memorable fake orgasm scene that I only know from oft-repeated cultural references because I’ve never actually bothered to see the film. I have seen Across the Universe 9,000 times, which was also filmed here, but I don’t mention it because people tend to hate that film with an unusual passion.
Anyway, we made our way through the crowded entrance and up to the line for Cutter No. 5. Loaves of perfectly sliced rye bread were shelved for the ready. Pickles were piled up high. Huge slabs of meat were passed back and forth between the carving stations like a bucket brigade. Our aproned carver hoisted up a hunk of beef and began trimming it with a such quick, deft touch it almost looked like magic.
The process is just as impressive as the meal. Mike opted for the classic pastrami on rye and I, being a weirdo, ordered the tuna salad. Both were excellent and well worth the wait. The accompanying pickles and tomatoes were the perfect finishing touch.
Action shot inside Kat'z.
Big Gay Ice Cream
https://biggayicecream.com
I think I learned of the wonder that is Big Gay Ice Cream from Neil Gaiman’s twitter account back on 2009ish. Just two dudes, in an ice cream truck, with some incredible menu offerings that would blow most soft serves out of the water. I remember they would tweet their truck location each day and everyone would rush to find them and grab a cone with crushed wasabi peas or raspberry balsamic topping or key lime custard. Cool people flocked to the truck as well. Soon they (Bryan and Doug) were chumming it up with Anthony Bourdain and Jane Wiedlin of the GoGo’s. The lines for the truck began to grow long.
In the fall of 2010, they pulled up outside of Neil’s 10th Anniversary release of American Gods. They had named two sundaes in his honor: American Globs and Lowkey Lime Pie (aka The Mermaid). I had arrived early so I could get in line and get a sundae before the book release event. After a lengthy wait, my turn came and I approached the truck, only to be cut off by some guy who jumped the line for some ice cream. I was just about to throw a hand up when I realized it was Neil himself. I think I said something like, “Oh! Please, go ahead!” Then I stood back and snapped a photo because I am a stupid nerd fangirl.
A year later the ice cream truck turned into a small ice cream shop, which turned into a small chain of shops, which now ship pints of their best flavors out to stores around the country, and which is how I got Mike hooked on Big Gay Ice Cream.
So for our NYC trip, we paid a visit to the East Village shop where it began. I selected the Salty Pimp (vanilla soft serve, injected with dulce de leche, sprinkled with sea salt, dipped in chocolate). Mike chose a sundae, the Blueberry Gobbler (vanilla soft serve piled on top of blueberry pie filling and pie crust). We devoured them over in Tompkins Square Park and people watched, which is the single greatest pastime in New York.
Joey Ramone Place
Whenever I take someone to New York I try to customize their experience by taking them to places that speak to their loves. For some it’s set locations from their favorite movie, or the shop where their favorite tv show is filmed or a historic site. For Mike, I decided to take him to find Joey Ramone Place to pay homage to one of his (and my) favorite bands. It’s just a street sign, at the corner of East 2nd Street and Bowery, but it commemorates the legacy of Joey Ramone and of NYC punk history. 2nd Street was home to the apartment where Joey lived for a time with the band’s art director Arturo Vega (who designed the Ramone’s seal).
A brick wall further down the street served as the photo backdrop for the band's debut album cover. And directly across the street is the former home of CBGB’s where the band (and many others) became famous during the heyday of the 70’s punk scene. The doorway in the alley behind the former club is still there as well, which you may recognize from the cover of Rocket to Russia.
Oscar Wilde Bar
https://www.oscarwildenyc.com
At the end of our day, we were exhausted from all the trekking around. We needed a place to crash and rest up, preferably one not too far away. Our hotel had checked us out, the hotel bar wasn’t open yet, and I wasn’t too familiar with the current bar scene in Chelsea. So I pulled up Yelp for guidance. It recommended a few bars in our radius, most of which were generic in theme, but one of which looked like a Victorian fever dream covered in mirrors and gilt. It was also just across the street, which was most convenient. So that’s how we discovered the glittering decadence that is Oscar Wilde.
Our bartender was a petite version of Tia Carrere in a black felt fedora and tank top. She was a fantastic mixologist and effortlessly cool and I wish I could be her for a day just to know what that’s like. I think I stumbled a bit when ordering my drink, the Gutter and Stars: a concoction of elderflower liqueur, gin, sparkling wine, lavender bitters, and lemon. Mike ordered The Godfather (probably because he loves The Godfather) which was scotch, amaretto, and lemon. We sipped our drinks and took in the incredible atmosphere around us.
The Oscar Wilde boasts New York City’s longest bar measuring in at 118.5 feet and crafted from Carrara marble (the same marble Michelangelo carved the statue of David and The Pieta from). The whiskey bar is a repurposed 1819 player piano, and offers over 300 varieties of whiskey. Around the rooms are 26 antique clocks of various styles, all of which have been set to 1:50, the time of Oscar Wilde’s death.
The spacious galleries have been carefully curated with period marble, antique cabinetry, wallpaper, lighting, and stained glass collected from estates and castles around the world. And in an ironic twist, the building which houses the Oscar Wilde bar was formerly the home of the Prohibition Enforcement Headquarters back in 1919.
And that was about as much as we could fit into our weekend. After that, we dragged ourselves over to the hotel, collected our bags, and jet set home for Boston. Not too bad for a 48-hour mini-cation.
